FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)

Question: I wrench on both 356 and VW engines. Do I need to buy multiple adapter ring and stands?

Answer: No, you can buy an extra starter bushing block. Click here for order page. This replaceable block unscrews from the starter adapter ring and a different bushing size can be installed in its place. This allows you to switch between 6V and 12V starter and flywheel combinations. Click here to see the accessories page for a picture of the bushing block.

Question: How much is shipping?

Answer: $14 flat rate for single adapter rings in the continental US. Alaska and Hawaii is $20, Europe $55, Australia $85

Question: Can I use your engine stands for assembly?

Answer: No, you cannot split or assemble the case when the adapter ring is installed. You can assemble the engine after the short block is complete. Having said that, it is possible to use 3/16" spacers on the left case half prior to attaching the starter adapter ring. The spacers must be removed after the short block is complete.

Question: Can the engine be rotated while on the stand?

Answer: Yes, depending on the limitations of your stand. Be sure to locate the rotation axis near the center of gravity.

v8 stand

Question: Should I buy a 3 or 4 wheel stand

Answer: We don't recommend 3 wheel stands as pictured above at all. Plus 4 wheel stands allow better floor jack access.

Question: Can I run the engine without a stand?

Answer: Yes, you can run your engine on a carpeted pallet.





Question: Can I use a floor jack to lift the engine up and attach it to the stand?

Answer: Yes, most floor jacks will lift the engine high enough to attach it to the stand. An extra set of hands to stabilize the engine while you attach the stand is recommended.

Question: Do I need any special hardware to attach my engine to your adapter?

Answer: No, the adapter ring is designed with the same dimensions as the bell housing in your car. Use the hardware from car. Contact us if you need bolts.

Questions: What kind of things can I look for when my engine is running on a stand?

Answer: Lots of stuff and its more enjoyable than crawling under a car

  • Oil, Fuel, fan shroud air, and exhaust leaks
  • Low Oil Pressure
  • Rubbing cooling fan components
  • Knocking sounds from inside the engine
  • Ignition timing advance curve and total advance
  • Dwell angle
  • Carburetor float levels
  • Fuel pressure
  • Carburetor synchronization
  • Idle mixture adjustment
  • Compression or leak-down test
  • Engine break in
  • Adjust valves, change oil, etc
  • the list goes on and on

Question: Can I build my own engine stand using an old transaxle?

Answer: Yes, you can and some hobbyist have made some very nice ones.   None can match the compact, lightweight, and versatile design offered here.   The internals of the trans must be removed unless you want keep oil in it and leave the axle tubes and wheel hubs on.  This requires special tools, time and clean up.  Then you are still faced with the problem of getting the engine up off the ground so you can easily work on it, change the oil and inspect for leaks.  This requires custom fabrication that will likely cost more time and money than we are offering a complete solution for.    911 and 912 owners don’t have the luxury of spare transaxles lying around and buying one is expensive.  For that matter even VW transaxles are hard to come by unless you live in southern California at a price of about $150.  Spend time on your engine and car rather than making tools that are hard to store, heavy and messy.  Aligning an engine to a transmission case without a trans input shaft is not easy to accomplish two feet up in the air.  It’s down right unsafe!  Our adapter ring and starter mounts to the engine first.  Then the engine can be hoisted or jacked on to the stand.  (easily done by one person with the correct lift). NOTE:  Transaxles contain Magnesium which is flammable when cut or ground.  Be very careful if you do build your own engine stand.

Question: What is the best way to get the engine on the stand?

Answer: First attach the adapter ring to the engine. Then hoist the engine in the air. If you don't have a hoist, then a come-a-long attached to a garage door beam header can work, but make sure you know what you're doing. Once the engine is in the air, then simply lift the stand with the bolts already in it to the engine. Three bolts attach the stand to the adapter ring. The stand is only 25lbs, so one person can easily do this alone. Click here for instruction manual.